Inside Simone Rocha’s romantic menswear debut

The designer’s first standalone menswear show explores vulnerability, softness, and modern masculinity through a ballet-inspired lens

Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection marked a milestone for the designer: her first standalone menswear runway show. Presented at Pitti Uomo in Florence, the collection distilled many of the codes that have defined Rocha’s universe into a singular vision of modern masculinity. Lace, sheer fabrics, floral motifs, scalloped hems, apron-inspired layers, culottes, and Mary Janes softened traditional menswear silhouettes, while gingham patterns and thick socks added a youthful, almost storybook charm. More than a debut, the collection felt like a natural evolution of Rocha’s ongoing exploration of tenderness and vulnerability. Rather than entering menswear, it seemed as though menswear had finally caught up to the romantic world she has been building all along.