FALL 2023: Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello blurs the lines between feminine and masculine

We love exaggerated, chic lines

If your idea of progressive dressing includes genderless, elegant, tailored clothes, you’d as well call Saint Laurent’s winter 2023 presentation euphoria.

Anthony Vaccarello, the maison’s creative director, blurred the lines between feminine and masculine dressing as he presented the winter 2023 collection. Saint Laurent, as far as I remember, has always exuded chicness, but this presentation even took that definition to greater heights—hair slicked back, shoulders amplified, necks accentuated, heels tall, coat-tails grazing the floor.

Although mostly in black, the varied use of texture in textiles made the pieces exciting. The pieces came in the form of velvet, leather, patent leather, silk, and chiffon. Silhouettes were kept elegantly tall and lean with clean vertical lines and minimal draping.

Among the notable silhouettes, standouts were the high-neck tunic, black and gray striped floor-length coat, cowl front silk shirt, pussy-bow see-through chiffon blouse, and a black suit with oversized lapel and chiffon scarf and cape hybrid.